Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Hardwood Floor Finishes

Oil-Based vs. Water-Based

Applicability

        Both types can be applied with a lamb’s wool applicator, but it is possible to apply three coats of water-based finish in the time it takes for one coat of the oil-based variety to dry. (The quick drying time of water-based makes it more susceptible to air bubbles if not done efficiently.)  Oil-Based tends to take a 5 + hours to dry in between coats / 12+ hours for the final coat (based on the humidity levels of the air).

Toxicity

        Oil-based polyurethane contains isocyanates which are very harmful to the respiratory and central nervous systems. Water-based polyurethane, on the other hand, is non-toxic and environmentally-friendly.  (Water-based polyurethane dries fast & it is possible to even use the room(s) by the end of the day, due to their low VOC.)

Finish Quality

        Because of its slower drying time, oil-based polyurethane tends to level out more smoothly and create a smoother, glossier surface than does water-based. Both produce an equally durable surface coating, yet due to their solid contents (which creates a protective finish), 4-5 coats are typically recommended for water-base vs. the standard 3-coats for oil-based polyurethane.  Both oil-based & water-based polys have their tradeoffs, as water-based poly won’t give the rich glow that oil-based polys will and tend to look more ‘natural’ / duller.

Availability

        Water-based floor finish is not as widely available as oil-based finish. Most hardware stores do not stock the water-based variety and it must be ordered from a professional floor-finisher   Water-based poly also cost twice as much as oil-based polys.

Clean-up

        Oil-based finishes require extensive cleaning of tools with nasty solvents, while tools used for water-based ones can be cleaned off with water. Also, waste disposal is not generally a problem when using water-based finishes as they are non-toxic.

Has Hurricane Irene damaged your Hardwood Floors?

Has Hurrican Irene affected you & your hardwood floors? - Please take time to read the following advice on preserving your existing hardwood floors.

Cleaning Wood Floors & Woodwork After a Flood

After wood floors have been covered with wet mud and dirt, they need to be cleaned, flattened and possibly replaced.

1. Before the house dries out, scrub all woodwork with a stiff, but non-abrasive brush, plenty of water and a non-sudsing detergent to remove mud and silt from corners, cracks and crevices.

2. Floodwaters may accumulate in partitions and exterior walls. Drain these areas as quickly as possible. Remove the baseboard and drill holes between studs a few inches above the floor. After the insulation and frames have dried, replace the baseboard.

3. Use your regular cleaning product for a final, thorough floor washing. If refinishing is necessary, consult an experienced professional for refinishing, or follow instructions on standard brands of finishes and varnishes for household use.

4. Wood floors may buckle. Leave them alone to dry. Dry wood as fast as possible. Open windows and doors wide enough to give good ventilation on dry, non-humid days. (Maintain a temperature of 50 degrees to 60 degrees Fahrenheit or higher in the house.)

5. After the house is dry, there are several possibilities for renovating the floors. Some of the buckled flooring may be pounded into place with nails. Some humps may be removed by planing or sanding. Heavily planed floors may never be used uncovered, but a smoothed old floor can serve as a base for a resilient hardsurface floor covering.

6. Mold and mildew are common problems with wet wood. Badly infected wood must be replaced. Clean mildewed floors, woodwork and other wooden parts by scrubbing with a mild alkali, such as washing soda or trisodium phosphate(available at most hardware stores), using four to six tablespoons for each gallon of water. Rinse well with clear water after scrubbing with alkali and allow the wood to dry thoroughly. Then apply a mildew-resistant finish.

7. To remove mildew stains or mold from unpainted wood surfaces, wash with warm soapy water. If stains remain, add one-half tablespoon of trisodium phosphate or four tablespoons of borax to each gallon of warm soapy water. Dry by rubbing with an absorbent cloth.

8. If mold has grown into the wood under paint or varnish, the finish must be removed. Scrub the wood with an abrasive cleaner, then wash with a solution containing four to six tablespoons of trisodium phosphate and one cup of household chlorine bleach for each gallon of water. Sand the wood and bleach any remaining spots. Several applications of household bleach may be needed. Then wash the surface with a weak ammonia solution--two tablespoons of ammonia per quart of water. Finally, rinse the wood well with clear water. . Do not mix bleach & ammonia as fumes may be fatal!

Drying Water-Damaged Wood Flooring

As you might imagine, the drying of damaged wood flooring must be done slowly. In general, you will want to remove as much standing water as possible, and then accelerate the evaporation process with fans. Do not apply any type of heat to the hardwood flooring, as splitting, cupping, and a host of other problems will result.


Sanding Water-Damaged Wood Flooring

After drying, you may have some concave or convex floorboards; this is called "cupping." Heavy sanding with a drum or orbital sander can actually "take down" some minor high areas. Heavily cupped wood cannot be sanded down flat.

It is inevitable that some floorboards may lift up completely at the ends. In this case, face-nail the floorboards back down.

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Tips for Maintaining Hardwood Floors

Though hardwood floors are durable, they do require careful maintenance and cleaning. Using the wrong cleaner on a hardwood floor could stain or discolor the wood irreparably. Follow these tips to keep your hardwood floors looking like new for years to come. Remember, before you apply anything to your hardwood floor, you should test the product in an inconspicuous area to ensure that it will not damage your wood. ~ A good environmentally friendly & inexpensive cleaning product to use is old-fashioned is (gallon) warm water & (1/2 cup) vinegar. (Straight ammonia or ammonia-based cleaning products should NOT be used on hardwood floors because they will dull the finish and possibly cause discoloration of the wood. Also, Wet mopping with a liquid soap or using abrasive cleaners is also not recommended, because either one has the potential to strip the finish or cause it to deteriorate).


Daily Care

The number-one enemy of hardwood floors is dirt, grit and sand. To prevent dirt, grit and sand from scratching or dulling the finish, simply vacuum your hardwood floors on a regular basis and clean with a damp, not wet, cotton mop once or twice a month. Your vacuum should have an attachment with a soft head. (Never use a vacuum with a beater brush on a hardwood floor. Use doormats or small area rugs at entrances and in high-traffic areas to trap dirt and other fine particles.)

Whether your hardwood floors are finished with wax, varnish or polyurethane, any food or liquid that spills on the floor should be wiped up immediately with a damp cloth and then dried with a clean towel. Water and other liquids should not remain on the surface of hardwood floors because they might damage the finish or seep in between the floorboards and cause warping.


Stain Removal

Water stains

Water stains are actually watermarks that are permanently imbedded in your wood. The cause of water stains are the minerals that exist in water. The harder the water, the more potential there is for staining.
Water stains are easier to have repaired by a professional, especially if there's a change of warping.

Gum

First, using your fingers, pick off as much gum as you can. Then get some ice from the freezer and put it into a plastic bag. Place the plastic bag on the gum and let it sit until the gum is frozen. You should be able to remove the frozen gum by scraping it with a credit card or something similarly thin and flexible. Don't use a razor blade, knife, screwdriver or other hard implement, as this will scratch and score the surface of the wood.

Pet Accidents

Hardwood floors can suffer if pets or a small child have an accident on the floor. Urine, given enough time or repeat offenses, will discolor your hardwood floors and make your floors smell.

If you discover the problem quickly, wipe up the mess with paper towels, followed by cleaning the affected area with detergent and water. Then drench a cloth with rubbing alcohol and rub away the stain. You may want to finish by applying a commercial odor neutralizer and stain remover. It may take more than one application of the commercial product to remove the smell.

Unfortunately, if the stain is old, you may have to sand the wood down and then refinish your hardwood floor. In a worst-case scenario, you will have to replace the affected planks. It is best to have a professional assess the damage & repair / replace, if needed.

Crayons

Kids occasionally do their own interior decorating. (You can avoid this problem completely by giving your children washable crayons.) If you are dealing with a wax crayon drawing, get some toothpaste from your bathroom and rub the affected area with the paste using a damp cloth. After the picture is gone, clean off any toothpaste that is left on the floor and then wipe your hardwood flooring dry.

If you have a clump or clumps of crayons on your floor, treat the crayons with ice in a plastic bag, the same as you would gum.


Preventative Care

Hardwood floors are easily gouged and dented by sharp or heavy objects. To prevent this from occurring, use felt pads under furniture legs and feet. Sunlight is known to change the color of some hardwood floors dramatically. (Consider drawing the drapes or closing the blinds to avoid excessive discoloration in one spot, especially if there are south- and west-facing windows in the room.)

With proper care and maintenance, you can enjoy & keep your hardwood floors looking new for many years!

Benefits of Hardwood Floors!

There are added benefits, beside the beauty when choosing hardwood flooring over other flooring, such as carpeting. And for those concerned with preserving our ecosystem, it’s important to remember that wood is a renewable and recyclable material.

Carpet wears out in time, unlike real hardwood which only needs a minimum amount of care to remain beautiful for the life of your home. Carpet also contains allergens like dust mites, pet dander and dust, which are known to contribute to serious medical problems like allergy-triggered asthma.

Laminate floors are relatively inexpensive, but are not as durable as hardwood floors. (Fading color, premature wearing and staining are also problems for some brands of laminate.)

Ceramic flooring is a mixture of clay and minerals, which may crack over time, inviting bacteria to form. (When finished properly and without toxic chemicals, ceramic tiles can be very expensive.)

The durability of Hardwood Floors is worth the investment. They will never go out of style, are a healthy choice for your family and adds value to your home. With simple maintenance, you can enjoy stunning hardwood floors that will retain their elegance and appeal through the years.

Most Common Types of Hardwood Floors

Both softwoods and hardwoods are appropriate for the interior of your home. Softwoods such as fir, pine, and spruce are likely to be damaged by wear and abrasion, which are best for light traffic areas such as bedrooms. Hardwoods like oak, birch, maple and pecan are denser and able to withstand harsher treatment. (Wood works best in spaces that are free of contact with moisture, but wood can also be treated to repel the negative effects of moisture.)

Depending on how the wood was sawn will determine its appearance and resistance to wear. Quarter-sawn flooring (edge or vertical grain) displays an even grain and will stand up to hard wear quite well. Plain-sawn flooring (flat grain) displays noticeable grain patterns and may not wear evenly.

The cost of wood flooring ranges from inexpensive pine to pricey walnut. It can be purchased either finished or unfinished. Color, grain pattern, density and texture vary and are specific to each species. Prefinished hardwood offers convenience; hardwood that's sanded and finished (on site) offers a gleaming reflection you just can't get with the small gaps between prefinished planks.

Regular maintenance is quite simple: just vacuum or sweep regularly and occasionally give a 'light' wash.

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